Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent menswear show for Summer 2026 unfolds with quiet confidence — a study in light, presence, and restraint. Staged inside Paris’s Bourse de Commerce, the collection exists in a liminal space: part Parisian sophistication, part Fire Island ease. It’s a vision of escape and elegance, suspended between worlds.
The references are understated yet evocative, nodding to artists like Stanton, Angus, and Ellis, who shaped ideas of beauty and desire. And to Yves Saint Laurent himself — who in 1974 paused, then returned renewed. Vaccarello doesn’t recreate the past; he continues its rhythm.
The setting reflects that philosophy. Gone is the nighttime spectacle — the show takes place in natural daylight, unfiltered and unembellished. Silhouettes are clean and fluid: tapered waists, extended shoulders, fabrics like silk and nylon that skim the body. The palette whispers in tones of sand, pale blue, ochre, and moss. Nothing demands attention; everything holds it.
At the show’s heart is Clinamen, an installation by Céleste Boursier-Mougenot, where porcelain bowls float and gently collide, creating their own serene melody. The clothes move the same way — calm, effortless, quietly alive.
1974 was a pause. 2026 is continuation — not nostalgia, but evolution.